...Cyclades island walks

About Astipalaia

Astipaleia

Located halfway between the Dodecanese and the Cyclades and sharing aspects of both, Astipalaia always seems under-rated to me.

 

At least three hours by ship from any other island, Astipalaia has a self-contained feel. The smell of its herb-covered hills wafting over the sea whilst still out of sight is an unforgettable first impression.

 

Once there, you shouldn’t feel at all cut off, as it has small doses of everything except an international airport. You won’t find the hills crowded, though, tourism is largely contained in the string of beaches along the south coast.

 

Astipalaia key points:

  • A distinctive butterfly shape, visible from above and, with faith, from the sea
  • A picturesque Chora on a towering crag, capped with a photogenic Venetian fortress
  • Rounded hills, brown in summer, some with limestone outcrops, dotted with shepherds, bee-keepers and tiny rustic chapels
  • Exciting islets, with day-trip possibilities in season
  • Many plants, especially autumn flowering cyclamens and asphodels and a unique and celebrated absence of snakes
  • A winter population of around 1200 which rises to 7000 at the height of summer, many from Italy
  • Beaches, accommodation, water sports and other facilities in self-contained enclaves

Getting to Astipalaia

  • Astipalaia has the feel of a "ferry a week" island; arrival and departure of one of the ferries is a major event, it's the main public means of access, as few cruising yachts seem to call.
  • Unless you manage to catch one of the rare internal flights that have now started, see www.olympicairlines.com, the fastest international airport link is by boat from Kos, via Kalymnos, about 4 hours.
  • So, with careful planning, it should be possible to reach the island within 24 hours of leaving the UK, but I’ve certainly never achieved that!
  • Astipalaia’s parent port is Kalymnos, but there are only about 4 sailings a week, taking 1½ hours by hydrofoil, 3 by ferry. www.gtp.gr
  • From Rhodes, hydrofoils, 5 hours or ferries, 7 hours sail once a week. www.ferries.info/hellenicseaways/
  • From the west, ferries take 5 hours from Naxos, 12 from Piraeus, and they’re also by no means daily.
  • Naxos also has an airport with internal flights from Athens (less than 1 hour), so again, if you plan carefully you could reach Astipalaia within 10 hours of your budget airline arrival in Athens.
  • Ferries also link on to Amorgos 3 or 4 days a week, and a few other Cyclades and Dodecanese islands.

Getting around Astipalaia

  • The all-year round school bus converts to tourism in the summer, and lurches between the beaches and settlements close to Chora and the port, venturing occasionally over the hills to the fjord at Vathy (Βαθυ) in the east, and the former pirate lair of Maltezana (Μαλτεζανα) in the west.
  • Bus and taxis shuttle ceaselessly between the port and the Chora all hours of day and night, and will take you on to Livadia too.
  • There’s enough of interest within day-hike reach of Chora, Skala and Livadia for at least a week’s walking, and with a hired car or bike, all corners of the island are easily reachable from there.

Staying on Astipalaia

Apart from the weeks around the Panayia (15th August) accommodation is plentiful, mostly in the picturesque Chora, in Skala, the (noisier) port, the scattered seaside villages around Maltezana and in the bay and fertile valley of Livadia.

 

There is also a campsite within a few Km of the Chora.

 

Maps and other information

Until Anavasi’s Topo maps extend to Astipalaia, you have to contend with the tourist maps which are available on the island. They both apparently show topographic detail, and both are drawn to a scale of about 3cm to 1Km. Both are cheap and attractive and comparing the different editions is instructive and amusing, but I would not recommend relying on them for walking apart from as a general guide.

 

Astipalaia is also featured on a very attractive relief map of Kos, Samos and Ikaria, published by Efstathiadis and using a scale of 1.5Km to the cm. The satellite image from Google maps or Earth Tools is probably a better bet!

 

There are several guide books, including a comprehensive guide to the architecture: E Savvaris & V Tsamtsouris, Astypalaia, Melissa Publishing House, 1985.

 

When searching the web, please note there are variants on the spelling: Astipalea, Astypalaia, Astypalea etc. Quite a few web sites give overall descriptions, including general impressions and places to see:

 

www.astypalea.org.uk

 

www.greeksun.co.uk may have a guidebook and map available

 

www.rhodesguide.com